Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
